How to build stairs using Ekodeck composite decking
If you’re planning to DIY a new deck using Ekodeck composite decking, chances are that you might have a few steps thrown in the mix as well.
Not to worry, as Ekodeck can be used to finish stairs, steps or landings just like regular timber decking can, so you can perfect your new Ekodeck project!
We’ve drawn up a handy cross-section of what a step up onto an Ekodeck composite deck would look like, see below:
You can also use the same building principles to do a set of stairs using Ekodeck, see below diagram:
Steps: Explained
A step consists of two main parts: the riser, which is the vertical section of the step, and the tread, which is the horizontal section that you step on.
When working out the dimensions for your steps, you may hear people refer to the tread as the tread depth, or going.
A riser is the vertical section of a step, and the tread depth is the depth of the horizontal step, less any overhang from the step/landing above.
To get started on building your stairs using Ekodeck, you’ll first need to measure the overall rise of the steps, that is the total height of the steps (from ground level to finished deck height.) You can then determine the height of your risers and the depth of your treads (goings), and how many steps you’ll need.
To work out the number of steps needed, divide the total rise until you get a number between 115mm – 190mm (as shown Table 3.9.1.1 from the National Constructions Code (NCC) below). It is imperative that at this step, you check against the NCC to ensure that your steps are being built to code and within regulations, so that they’re safe and compliant.
For example if your deck is 520mm from the ground level, 520mm/3= 173mm, which will be your rise.
| Step Section | Riser Height | Tread Depth (Going) |
|---|---|---|
| Min-Max | 115-190mm | 240-355mm |
Recommended minimum goings are 240mm and the maximum is 355mm, so you’ll need to decide on where in that range your tread depth will land.
In the case of using any of our 137mm Ekodeck composite decking boards, 165mm risers work perfectly. Using 140x45mm framing timber for your frame, allows a full board on the fascia with a 5mm gap left at the bottom, then add the 23mm thickness of the Ekodeck board you get a total rise of 165mm.
Now that you’ve worked out how many steps, and the dimensions for the risers and treads, you can start building your frame.
Framing options – Box Frame
Most people when DIYing a deck, will install any steps or stairs using a box frame.
A box frame is a series of box-like platforms instead of traditional cut-out stringers, constructed from sturdy materials like treated pine, designed to support the treads and risers of the stairs.
Box framing is generally used for 1-3 steps, as they use a lot of material, but are very stable.
Framing options – Box Frame Landings
Another way you can utilise box frames is to make landings or platform steps. These are often utilised in entrances, especially where there is a long, slight height gradient along the block between the street and the front door. Large landings can also be made, which is great at the back door of a house to ensure enough landing area for people to safely exit the house and step down onto the deck.
Framing options – Box Frame with Posts
You can also use a modified version of a box frame, which utilises the same principles as the standard box frame, but the horizontal supports don’t go all the way to the rear of the deck. Each box frame is supported and attached to posts which are concreted into the ground.
This type of box framing can be useful when there are a few more than 3 steps, as it uses less material, and you also have more control over the height of the risers than with a traditional box frame.
Framing options – Stringers
The other option for the framing of stairs is to use traditional stair stringers, which can be constructed from scratch, or you can purchase pre-fabricated ones from Bunnings (like these).
Stringers are typically used for stairs that consist of more than 5 or so steps, as they tend to use less material than a box frame and don’t need posts to support them throughout their span. Stringers are generally reserved for the professional tradesperson, but with the right tools and attitude a competent DIYer can tackle making their own stringers. Stringers are usually needed every 400mm to support your Ekodeck boards, but best to confirm the span and loading requirements of the Ekodeck boards you are installing before getting stuck in.
Layout options
Once your frame has been constructed, you can now get to cutting and laying your Ekodeck boards.
Generally, when installing steps using Ekodeck, people will utilise a mitred picture-frame design on the steps, as this hides the grooved profile and creates a nice clean finish.
When installing Ekodeck composite decking in a mitred corner, we recommend installing the boards with no gap between each mitre joint. As the boards are very short, there is minimal expansion/contraction.
When setting out your framing/joists for steps, you can take the same principles used for setting up any joists/framing for picture-framing boards, see below for an example using 6mm Quickfix.
The above step diagram shows a 1000mm long step, and the below diagram is the deck framing you would use for a box frame, using 45mm battens and a 33mm overhang (as shown above).
The 33mm overhang allows for a fascia board, which is 23mm thick, and then a 10mm overhang of the Edge Board.
Another design option for the layout of your steps is to border each step with the fascia board, using an Edge Board as the fascia board, see below examples:
The above examples of step designs are just the beginning, and you can tailor your steps to your specific project needs.
If you have a different idea on how to utilise steps in your composite decking project, feel free to get in touch with us at [email protected] or give us a call at (03) 9639 7774, or if you need a hand with your project and are wanting to hire a professional, you can request an Ekodeck installer here.
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